Mastard

Somewhat off the beaten track in Montréal, Mastard is run by humble chef-owner Simon Mathys, formerly of Laurie Raphaël in Québec City and Le Manitoba in Montréal. The roughly 50-seat room fills fast, with only five services a week and reservations required. His carte blanche menu celebrates Québec produce, lifted by his trademark sauces, sabayons and emulsions, as in precisely cooked scallop on salsify purée.